sábado, 23 de junio de 2007

EL CANARIO NEGRO AMARILLO INTENSO Y NEVADO

EL CANARIO NEGRO AMARILLO INTENSO Y NEVADO

Por: Kevin Prados Garcia C.N BQ-36


Llevo criando el canario negro amarillo intenso o "verde" como se le biene llamando habitualmente desde hace unos años, teniendo con ellos bueno resultados y satisfacciones, tanto a nivel expositivo como a nivel reproductivo.Pasare a relatar mis experiencias y como llevo a cabo la selelcción de los ejemplares que me quedare para la reproducción, como su preparación para los concursos y su comportamiento en dicho evento.


Selección de ejemplares para la cria.

El canario Verde, es de la serie Negra, como pueden ser bronces y grises, y como Negros, deben ser lo mas negros posibles o lo que biene siendo lo mismo, oxidados. Para llegar a esta oxidación optima en nuestros ejemplares, dejemonos de productos y centremonos en la selección de los ejemplares que como en todas las gamas debera ser rigurosa y siguiendo unos criterios.En lo primero que me fijo a la hora de seleccionar mis ejemplares es en las partes corneas, e intento que los dos sujetos presenten el maximo de expresión en este apartado, eliminando a aquellos sujetos que no presenten dicho caracter, aunque si un ejemplar es optimo en algunas caracteristicas que me interesan para mi cepa pero no tiene las partes corneas lo oxidadas que deberian ser, recurro a la compensación, buscando a un ejemplar muy oxidado para compensar la falta de oxidación del otro ejemplar, también recurro a ejemplares poco oxidados a la segunda o tercera generación de selección de ejemplares muy oxidados, ya que en el cruce de ejemplares muy oxidados durante varias generaciones nos podemos encontrar con los llamados "piel negra" que pueden ser muy perjudiciales a la hora de emparejarlos con nuestros canarios verdes, ya que es un factor subletal que hace que el pajaro este en constante muda y que no llegue a criar. El otro punto es el de las melaninas, que siendo de la serie negra, deben ser anchas y continuas, sin entrecortarse y paralelas unas con otras. Aqui no suelo recurrir al metodo de la compenssación, ya que este apartado es el que cuenta mas en la planilla, y el que por encima de los demas, impresionara antes al juez. Con esto quiero decir que los dos ejemplares deben tener unas estrias bien definidas, anchas y continuas, siendo en los nevados mas pronunciado que en los intensos por norma general. El otro apartado y no menos importante es el lirpocromo y la categoria, siendo en el canario verde esto muy importante, el color del conjunto debe ser de una tonalidad verde botella, descartando a aquellos ejemplares machos intensos que no tengan en su conjunto esta tonalidad ( tiendan al color amarillento o al doré), y a aquellos sujetos que tengan plumas blancas en la cloaca, por eso a la hora de hacer las parejas, busco en las hembras un minimo de feomelanina, que ayudara a que los machos preserven este color verde botella, y sobretodo los intensos que es en la categoria que el color verde botella por lo general, aparece menos definido, y al esconder la feomelanina por su caracter de intenso, no notara que las hembras porten un minimo de dicha melanina. También es muy importante el cierre de la cloaca y el abdomen, en los cuales el color debe ser uniforme al del resto del cuerpo.
Por ultimo recurro a la compensación en el apartado de la talla y la forma, nunca recurriendo a emparejamientos entre intenso x intenso o nevado x nevado y también eliminando a aquellos que sean de piel negra.

Reproducción.

A la hora de la reproducción suelo emparejar a los machos jovenes con una sola hembra, ya que todavia siendo del año no puedo saber si la descendencia hederara caracteres perjudiciales para la prole. A los machos que me han demostrado ser fuertes a la hora de aparearse pudiendo cubrir a mas de una hembra y que transmiten buenos caracteres a la descendencia , lo emparejo con varias hembras que van desde las dos hasta las tres, pudiendo en casos excepcionales emparejarlos con hasta cuatro hembras. Uso con frecuencia estos emparejamientos porque asi se pueden esparcir mas rapidamente y en volumen los genes y caracteres beneficiossos de un macho, y eso se notara a la hora de ver la descendencia. En cuanto a la consanguinidad recurro a emparejamientos mas bien cercanos, emparejando primos, sobrinos y tios, madres e hijos o viceversa, esto me permite fijar mas rapidamente caracteres que quiero para mi prole, no cruzando nunca diferentes lineas de sangre y intentando adquirir ejemplares de un mismo criador, de los cuales podremos obtener aspectos positivos y podremos preservar la calidad ya conseguida, ya que cruzando ejemplares de diferentes criadores he notado que salen a la luz muchos defectos, mientras que seleccionando en consanguinidad podremos obtener ejemplares con las caracteristicas que buscamos y parecidos entre ellos. Los canarios verdes son por lo general buenos criadores y empapuzadores de su prole, aunque cuanto mas oxidado es el ejemplar, mas dificultades encontraremos. No uso ningun tipo de pasta especifica para criar a los verdes, y uso la pasta que uso para los otros ejemplares. He notado que las hembras nevadas crian mejor que las intensas, que tienen mas dificultades para sacar adelante a sus pichones.


Selección de ejemplares para concurso.

A la hora de seleccionar aquellos sujetos que tienen que ir a concurso elimino las hembras, ya que presentan siempre feomelanina y una mala categoria en caso de las nevadas, amosaicada ademas de un excesso de "pechuga" que rompe totalmente la armonia con el cuerpo. A la hora ya de seleccionar aquellos machos optimos para cocnurso elimino los ejemplares que no presenten las partes corneas debidamente oxidadas, que presenten un excesso evidente de feomelanina, aquellos que presenten un excesso de escarchadura, una mala categoria amosaicada o que no es armoniosa en su conjunto teniendo el color verde botella y por descontado , aquellos ejemplares que muestren taras, quistes o fugas liprocromicas. Cuando tengo todos los ejemplares que quiero llevar a concursar seleccionados, ago los equipos, y pongo a los intensos en compartimentos individuales, pudiendo ser jaulas de 60 partidas por la mitad o jaulas de 40 enteras ya que los intensos se muestran muy nerviosos y hay que acostumbrarlos a estar en compartimentos pequeños desde unos meses antes de los concursos, los nevados por lo general los alvergo en jaulas de metro, teniendo de 4 a 6 ejemplares por jaula y con bañera abundante. He podido apreciar que los ejemplares intensos ganan mas concursos que los nevados, por eso a la hora de los emparejamientos busco caracteres mas beneficiosos para la prole intensa que para la nevada. En cuanto a usar productos para la mejora de la oxidación no conseguiremos nada, tal vez mejor en negros mutados si ya que presentan normalmente partes corneas menos oxidadas y con algun producto, o con el sol se les podran oxidar mas las patas, pico y uñas, en canvio en los canarios classicos, donde tenemos la oxidación de dichas partes muy conseguida, con ejemplares que presentan unas partes corneas negrissimas, no notaremos diferencia y lo mejor es dejarnos de productos y concentrarnos en una selección genetica, partiendo de ejemplares bien oxidados. Si queremos recurrir a exponer nuestros ejemplares al sol seria conveniente acerlo antes de la muda, ya que despues no sera buena ya que el sol se come el liprocromo, dejandolo apagado.

El estandar.

El canario Negro Amarillo intenso debe tener las partes corneas lo mas oxidadas posibles, el liprocromo debe ser de una tonalidad verde botella que envuelba al pajaro en su conjunto, no presentando ningun tipo de clara en el plumaje, las eumelaninas deben ser anchas y continuas presentando un color negro muy concentrado, mas en los intenso que en los nevados, por que al ser la pluma mas pequeña la melanina se concentrara mas y aparecera mas nitida y oscura, por lo consiguiente, las melaninas podran ser mas estrechas que en los nevados y que en los mosaicos, porque la ser la pluma mas estrecha la estria sera mas estrecha. Los nevados son un poco mas propensos a tener feomelanina al haber espacios intermelanicos sin liprocromo, y si esto no se trabaja nuestros ejemplares pueden acusar feomelanina en la interestria. Los nevados generalmente deben tener las estrias mas anchas que los intensos. La cloaca debe acabar con un color armonioso con el abdomen y resto del cuerpo, y no debe tener plumas blancas.

Conclussión.

Sin duda el canario verde es un clasico en la canaricultura que esta presente en muchisimos aviarios. Hace ya 6 años cuando yo empece en esto, no se veian muchos canarios de este tipo, parecia que estaban en un declibe, pero hace ya unos tres años que vengo viendo muchisimos ejemplares en los concursos. Los verdes es una de las gamas que mas me gustan, teniendo una enorme sadisfacción ya desde que saltan del nido y algun ejemplar nos muestra sus anchas y negras estrias. Ya hace 5 años que adquiri mis primeros ejemplares, que no eran de una desorbitada calidad pero que siguiendo los criterios nombrados en este escrito he conseguido mejorarlos,, .El verde es un canario muy agradecido que seguro enamorara al que lo crie. Espero con este escrito guiar un poquito a aquellos novatos que quieran empezar a criar este precioso canario, hacer llegarlo a aquellos criadores que no lo crian y a los que los crian, animarlos a seguir criandolo y poderles haber ayudado en algo que no sabian.




Buena hembra Negra Marfil Intensa, melaninas que salen desde el pico y que se extienden en el dorso, acnhas y continuas.



Excelente macho nevado reproductor, barras anchas y continuas y excelente liprocromo, aunque la categoria sea mala y tenga algo de feomelanina no sera un inconveniente a la hora de seleccionarlo como reproductor si nuestro objetivo es sacar buenos ejemplares intensos a nivel expositivo.



Buen macho reproductor negro amarillo intenso, melaninas anchas y continuas muy negras que contrastan con un buen liprocromo verde botella.

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